GD427 Cobra Build Adventure

It’s All Done (Well Nearly)

2011-05-31T09:00:00.001+01:00

A few pics of the new build, I just have to fit the roll bar

Build Update

2011-03-11T13:43:00.000Z

The car is all but finished now just the interior fit. Wheels are on order, hopefully have them in the next couple of weeks.

I think the engine looks really smart with the matching covers and air intake. I’ve not fitted the gas rams yet hence the trusty old broom handle.

I should be getting it into GD to have the headers and cats fitted to the sidepipes in the next few weeks.

Couldn’t resist a bit of a mock up.

I intend to paint the sidepipes black along with the roll bar. What do you think?

The Body Arrives

2011-01-30T18:45:00.001Z

I picked up the body yesterday from GD. I have to say it looks absolutely stunning. They have made a superb job of the metallic gelcoat stripe and as always the whole gelcoat body is first class.

I had a busy day today cutting all the holes and masking it up ready for the underseal

A big thank you needs to go out to Andy and his team at GD for all the effort they have put into this. There willingness to try something new and push the boundaries is a breath of fresh air and long may it go on. I don't think a metallic gelcoat stripe has ever been done before and it has given them an insight into producing a whole body in metallic gel. So if anybody’s interested you know where to go.

Next stop the sidepipes.

Happy New Year

2011-01-01T11:11:00.001Z

I hope everybody is well and looking forward to another year of building and driving. Fingers crossed the summer is as extreme as the winter temperature wise
I picked up the new chassis at the beginning of November

And on a later visit saw the body in the mould

Not one to hang around I am now at rolling stage.

I saw the body out of the mould just before Christmas it looked fantastic, the metallic gel coat stripe has come out really well. It should be available for pick up next week after the gel coat has had a factory polish. I’m not doing it this time as it was my most loathed job on the last build.

New Build Update

2010-09-22T21:01:00.000+01:00

I have ordered the new build from GD. I am hoping to take delivery of it at the end of October or beginning of November. This time I am taking the chassis and body together , along with all the other parts. I am having the body fully polished this time (hated doing the last one). The colour scheme and feel of the car is going to be a bit more traditional. Here is my inspiration.

As I said before the body will be in gel and polished. GD are going to try and put a metallic gelcoat stripe in it for me. It’s all a bit experimental yet so watch this space.

I am also going for sidepipes which GD are making, I believe they are going to be an option for all in the future.

I have already stripped the donor

I had all the parts powder coated. It actually worked out cheaper than sand blasting/stripping and POR15 and the finish is first class.

The colour for the chassis and running gear is Gentian Blue RAL 5010

Finally I am only going for outward period looks and have gone for an LS2 as the power plant. I just couldn’t bring myself to swap to a rusty old iron block after the fun, reliability and I have to say it, economy of the LS1.

The engine was courtesy of Vauxhall Monaro VRX with 12K on the clock. It was still in the car and running before I helped remove it and all checked out OK.

A small mod to the gear lever and it’s ready to drop in the new arrival.

Just cut off the gearlever mount and welded it back to the original position.

So that’s about it for now, I will post up a few pics when the new one arrives.

Hood Fitting

2010-06-22T20:09:00.001+01:00

I started to fit the hood today as I want a bit of weather proofing before I go to Le Mans

First job is to lay the roof over the frame and centralise it

Two things you will need are plenty of ,masking tape, and duck/carpet tape.

Once it was centralised I fixed it at the front with carpet tape and stretched and glued it to the GRP moulding at the back. Then glued the front.

That’s it. You might of guessed by now that I forgot to take pictures again. but it’s all pretty straight forward, just lots stretching pulling and sticking. SimonR has a good write up about it (with plenty of pictures)

Side screens next.

New Steering Wheel and Some Mods

2010-06-19T10:28:00.001+01:00

Picked up a nice wooden steering wheel and boss from GD the other day. While I was fitting it I thought I might as well do the stalk mod and sort out the cancelling on the indicators.

The first stage was to take out the steering column and strip out the plastic stalks, these were then cut off

A hole is then drilled in the end and then tapped out with an M6 tap

The stainless steel stalk can then be screwed into the plastic stalk end

One done, just a repeat for the other side and put all the steering column back together.

Next on the list was to sort the indicator self cancelling out. One approach and probably the simplest is to insert two studs into the boss either side of the cancelling peg.

Simons Blog shows this quite nicely

I however opted for the method that Paul at GD uses which is to make a little bracket up and fix it to the boss using a couple of M5 caphead bolts. I don't think there is any difference in the workings of the two methods, so the choice is yours.

Some careful measuring is needed to determine the placing of the bracket and it’s length. Once that was done all that remained was to reinstall the column and fix the new wheel on.

On to the roof now.

Great Day At GD

2010-06-19T09:58:00.001+01:00

I called in at GD the other day to pick up the soft top, steering wheel and a few other bits and bobs. When I arrived I was greeted by Andy complete with a couple of walking sticks. Apparently he had pulled his back while lifting a parcel (wimp).

It was a nice sunny day and Ian Stent, editor of Complete Kit Car was there to do a piece on the GD Cobra. Now unfortunately I didn’t have my camera so was unable to take any pics. but suffice to say we had a good old chat, and he nipped off in the GD demonstrator to take some arty shots.

While he was gone the guys from Holland turned up with a GT40 that they were attempting to get through IVA

Andy commented on the fact that the bodyshell would probably fit on their GDT70 chassis. So out came the tape measure and it wasn’t far off. Food for thought, Maybe GDGT40

When Ian arrived back he wanted to do some action shots with the car moving. Now this is where it got interesting, Andy hobbles over and says “ would you like to drive the demonstrator while Ian hangs out the back of a car and takes some photos” Let’s just say he didn’t have to ask twice.

Ian kindly sent me this shot.

Ian was also interested to hear about my build and asked me to send him a picture of myself and the car and he would put a little sub box thingy in with the article. He then went off to give it a good old test drive. When he got back he seemed quite impressed with the car, but we’ll have to wait and see what he writes in the article.

I’m not sure when the article is being published in Complete Kit Car but it’ll be one copy I’ll be buying.

So fame at last, I’m going to have to get an agent and everything, do you thing they’ll give me an Equity Card.

So all in all a really good day. Ian was a really nice chap, as were the Dutch guys. We all sat and had lunch, talking cars and other blokie things, sun shining what more could you want. Just wish I’d had a camera. I thought of a few more bits I wanted and Paul made them while I waited (he’s another really nice chap) and then went home to explain to the wife where I’d been all day.

Rear End Shot

2010-06-14T17:20:00.001+01:00

Here you go Marcel Rear ender just for you.

And pic underneath without cherry bombs and turns.

!!!!! IVA PASSED !!!!!

2010-06-14T16:17:00.000+01:00

Today was the big day, I turned up at the Nottingham test centre bright and early 8.30am for a 9.00am test,full of optimism and hope.

3 1/2 hours later it was all over and I had the very precious MAC certificate in my paws.

First time pass, better results than I got at school, they obviously didn’t teach the right subjects.

I would like to say a big thank you to everyone at Gardner Douglas who have been more than helpful and met every question / need I had with a smile, advice and explanation regardless of how many were asked or how stupid.

Their enthusiasm for their product and brand is as genuine as it gets and is testament to the magnificent car you end up building.

Bonnet & Scoop Polished & Fixed--- Thoughts About The Next One…………

2010-06-13T21:31:00.000+01:00

I gave the bonnet and scoop the Farecla treatment today and fixed it on with some M4 stainless bolts. 27 off the bl***y things. Just need that man from VOSA to call now. I suppose I’d better clean the garage up while I’m waiting.

The scoop is just for show really. I haven’t gone to the trouble of cutting the hole in the bonnet as the LS engines do not require the extra cooling or air intake for the carburettors. In fact Andy’s demonstrator at GD has the same set up, with no hole in the bonnet.

I have to say that the whole thing has been a truly enjoyable experience and I would recommend it to anybody.

As can be seen from the pic below I already have the donor for the next one. A 3.6 MK3 Manual XJS with powerlok diff.

I have already started to strip the front running gear with the rest being dismantled over the summer, ready for a winter build again.

I will be building another GD427 but will be going for a more classical look this time. Although I will be using another LS engine (probably an LS2 400hp+) so I know a few out there wont agree. But personally I think they are outstanding in performance, reliability and fuel economy which I am afraid is getting harder to ignore in today's market.

I have already had discussions with Andy regarding colours and build options and feel just as excited about it as I did this one.

SO WATCH THIS SPACE

Having said that I’m not sure if I will blog the whole build again as I didn’t make a brilliant job of blogging this one. I will though, be definitely posting updates as I go along.

So fingers crossed for the IVA. I already have the DVLA inspection booked for the 24th June, so barring anything disastrous at the IVA I should be all legal then and ready for Le Mans Classic.

Car Finished and Ready For IVA

2010-06-11T20:53:00.000+01:00

Well that's it. I'm afraid that I have missed loads of the build stuff out due to no time to build the car, run the business and keep the blog up to date, suffice to say the blog has took the back seat. The car is now finished and awaiting it's IVA.

I just have the bonnet and scoop to polish and fix. A nice job for Sunday morning.

I went for a simple dash layout, note the labels that now have to be applied to identify what each switch does to comply with IVA regs.

Biting The Bullet

2010-05-24T09:29:00.001+01:00

After finding every last little job to do except polish the body I could side step it no longer. I thought I’d secured the services of a master polisher to do it for me, but he didn’t materialise this weekend and as the IVA is looming in the next couple of weeks (hopefully) I set to on the hottest day of the year with the buffer and lots of Farecla.

I used the Farecla Profile range, Paul at GD uses this and gets absolutely stunning results. You start with Profile 100 which will remove wet and dry marks from grade 800 and then work your way through the range using 200, 300, 500, Glaze or G10 and finally a nice wax.

I used Harly Wax is made from 100% Pure premium yellow Brazilian carnauba and gives a really nice shine.

While not as good as Paul's masterpieces I am very pleased with the end result considering my short attention span when it comes to polishing.

Time now to bolt all the bits back on and get those carpets in ready for the IVA.

Pedalbox Fitting

2010-05-19T20:23:00.001+01:00

I’m not really going to say much about the fitting of the pedalbox because it would involve to many expletives. suffice to say it’s done.

The main problem is the weight of it and the tight confines of the space you are working in. Some people have used a spreader plate on the back, but I was happy with some large thick washers as the GRP is over 10mm thick at this point. There is also a strengthening bar that fits to the steering column support bar which I will fit at a later date. So all in all I don’t think it’s going anywhere.

On to the carpets now. I just hope you don’t have to take the b*?**y pedalbox out to fit them.

Headrests

2010-05-16T10:32:00.001+01:00

One of the new requirements for IVA is the need for a headrest. This can either be built into the seat or fixed to the car in some way. There are various measurements and rules that have to be adhered to depending on which route you go down. If anybody wants to delve into it more, all the information can be found in the IVA Manual HERE

I decided to have seats without the headrests built in and GD provide a headrest that fix to the roll bar.

I think they looks quite smart, but unfortunately Mr IVA man says it is to small.

So I set about making some larger ones.

The first step was to make a template out of some card and then use it to cut some 12mm ply.

I then put a radius on the edge with a router and with help from a small chisel and some epoxy resin I captured some M10 nuts on the foam faced side of the ply.

Next I shaped a piece of 75mm thick foam to fit and stuck it on.

Then came the tricky bit of wrapping the vinyl around it. Using what I can only say was a lot of brute force and a very small amount of ignorance, I managed to stretch and pull it so that I was happy with the result.

All I needed to do then was trim off the access, cut a piece for the back and I was all done.

I am quite pleased with end result and they should be fine for the IVA, my fingers are a little sore from all the pulling though.

Just another one to do now

Pedalbox Arrival

2010-05-16T09:52:00.001+01:00

I got the call from Andy at GD that I’d been waiting for on Thursday, The pedalbox was ready for collection

I have to admit that it is a very nice piece of engineering and bl*$*y heavy too, which should make for a few choice words when fitting it this week.

Horn

2010-05-12T08:47:00.001+01:00

Put the symbols to work last night and added a couple to the stalk that controls the horn.

IVA Application

2010-05-11T17:55:00.001+01:00

Rang Andy today at GD and still no pedal box but it is imminent. As this is the last part to fit besides the carpet I have decide to get my application in for the IVA. The first or second week in June should be fine if it’s available. I might even make the Newark Kit Car Show, all be it in an unpolished state, because I am totally cheesed off with the whole buffing thing and would advise anybody with as shorter boredom threshold as me, to get it done by GD. Any people out there (with masochistic tendencies) who are able and willing to do it for me (maybe for a small fee) please feel free to put yourself forward.

Here is a top tip for anybody doing a build with an LSx engine. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE ENGINE NUMBER BEFORE IT GOES IN as the tiny etched numbers on the block are just about impossible to see after the body is on. But after a lot of shuffling and shining of the torch I managed it.

Also picked up a sheet of STICKERS today, that will be very useful for labeling all the switches etc.

Steering Column

2010-05-03T21:49:00.001+01:00

At the same time as picking up the instruments I got a steering column cowl. After marking out the aluminium I cut the slots for the stalks and hole for the ignition barrel

The leather was then stuck to the cowl using some spray adhesive.

The hole in the leather for the ignition lock is cut under size and then the ignition lock is popped out by turning the key to the first position and then using a 2mm Allen key pushed into the small hole in the barrel.

It is important that once the lock is out, not to turn the key or move the steering shaft. The lock is reinserted by placing a screwdriver inside the barrel and pushing the U shaped thing down so it clicks. The lock is them pushed home trapping the leather. The barrel will need to click twice for it to lock back in place.

Dashboard

2010-05-03T20:42:00.002+01:00

I have the instruments at last, so set to work on the dashboard. The first task was to scribe the dash in to the scuttle to allow 5mm clearance and then drill seven 3.2mm holes to take the M4 dome head bolts. The holes are drilled small so as to give a really tight fit and stop them moving when you fix the dash in place. I added some epoxy glue under the heads just to be sure.

I then marked out the dash for the various gauges and switches.

pic

Then it was out with Dremel. The job was made quite easy using the radius attachment.

Once this was done I stuck the foam on using spray adhesive and stretched the leather over gluing it on the back, which I thought I’d took some pictures of but obviously forgot

All the gauges and switches were then pushed in, the end result is quite satisfying. I used some hole punches to cut the leather for the switches and warning lights. I punched each hole 2mm smaller than the actual switch/warning light size.

I then made up some mini looms for the gauges,switches and warning light and it was already to plug and play.

Things to note are that you have thin out the back of the dash where the Lucas switches are as there isn’t enough thread to get the nut on with the leather and foam.

I will add the piping to the top just before I final fit the dash.

Handbrake

2010-04-22T21:20:00.000+01:00

I also got round to fitting the handbrake. I made my own bracket. I first made a template out of aluminum sheet and then took this to my friendly fabricators Westons as I wanted it out of 1/4” steel sheet and it would be easier for them to bend it. I then welded a couple of nuts on it and I was all set.

New Arrivals

2010-04-22T21:00:00.000+01:00

On one of my visits to GD I picked up my wheels. I decided to go with 16” as I like the look of a bit more rubber and the softer ride they give.

Wiring

2010-04-22T20:23:00.000+01:00

The wiring is all done now. I decided to use a standard Lucas loom from Premier Wiring instead of GD’s. I had a word with Alan and told him what I wanted and got him to add a few bits in for me, extra relays, more length where need etc. It has worked out really well and I am very pleased especially since it worked out about half the price.

All the ends are now complete with multiconectors and ready for the dash to be plugged straight in.

I also wasn’t happy with using female spade connectors straight onto the column switches so a quick trip down to the scrap yard out with the soldering iron and shrink wrap and it was all sorted.

I have had a thought that maybe there isn’t room for these within the cowl, I’ll just have to wait and see.

The horn has been fitted. I decided on a STEBEL at around 120 decibels it’s pretty loud, It certainly made my ears ring when I tried it in the garage.

I have used some waterproof connectors for the front head lights and fans, as these could be subject to the odd bit of water (not that I intend to get it wet of course)

while bullet connectors have been used in the boot and everything has been P clipped in place.

The only thing that was left was the wire for the number plate light. I did this by drilling two holes in the n/s hinge

and an access hole in the side of the boot

I then used a stripped wire from a length of 2.5mm twin and earth to thread through the boot. If you pull it out at each access hole and then carry on to the next it is pretty straight forward. Once the pull wire was in place I hooked taped the number plate light wire to it and pulled it through. You have to be careful not to pull to hard as the wire can get trapped between the two skins.

So that’s it for the electrics. “Where’s those instruments”

Cooling

2010-04-22T20:05:00.000+01:00

I have also now fitted and connected all the cooling system stuff using some nice blue silicon.

Header tank bolted to cross brace using some rivenuts and M6 bolts.

Also while I was in GD I spotted something shiny out the corner of my eye and naturally I had to have it.

These stainless heater pipes make for a nice bit of bling and keep the engine bay nice and neat.

The washer bottle was fitted which in a different place to GD recommended due to my fuel pipe being to far over to the left.

It also meant moving the fuse block too. Only minor adjustments and with so many Cobras out there I’ll always now which one is mine.

Fuel Tank & Pump

2010-04-22T19:40:00.000+01:00

The fuel tank fits in the boot and just requires a couple of straps to hold it in place. But before the tank went in I needed to fit the fuel tank sender.

This was an easy job made hard by the fact that it is awkward to get a decent low fuel reading due to the shape of the tank. But after much messing about with the multimeter and tipping of the tank upside down and back again I got there. It was just a case of soldering the float arms and fitting the sender. I drilled and tapped the tank for M5 bolts and applied some Blue Hylomar to all surfaces to ensure a good seal.

I then took two pieces of aluminum, bent them to the correct shape to fit the tank. These were then fastened in place with some M6 nuts and bolts.

I then mounted the fuel pump, filter and regulator and made the connections.

This was then bolted to the inside of the boot.

I will be boxing the pump assembly in before carpeting. I am also waiting for a connection for the regulator from the States to enable final fitting.

Update On Build - Windscreen

2010-04-22T19:33:00.000+01:00

I am finding myself with a bit of time on my hands while I wait for my final bits (adjustable pedal box, instruments and carpets. So I thought I’d update the blog with build progress.

I fitted the windscreen, GD had already marked the body where the support legs enter so after these had been cut holes were drilled in the legs and it could be bolted in place.

This then allowed me to get a measurement for the wiper spindles. Then using a piece of MDF cut to the same angle as the spindles I opened them out to the correct size using he trusty Dremel

Once I was happy with the holes I fitted the spindles, I have not full tightened them as I will need some movement when I fit the Bundy tubes.

Disappointing News

2010-04-09T20:22:00.002+01:00

Well I’m afraid that my goal of the Stoneleigh show is not going to happen. I am actually quite close but unfortunately still waiting on the pedal box, instruments and carpets. The heater arrived last week and the other bits are imminent but I wont have enough time to fit them and get through the IVA. The good news is that I have booked for the Le Mans Classic, complete with parade laps in July, so I shouldn't have a problem with that.

Although I have not posted for a while I have still been busy with the build. The wiring has been done as far as possible with out the instruments. The windscreen has been fitted and removed wipers installed along with the doors, bonnet, boot, fuel tank , fuel pump and filter etc.

To put the smile back on my face I decided it was time to give the engine a start. I checked through the wiring, carefully making any live feeds safe and added a bit of fuel to the tank.

With a very shaky hand and the old ticker doing ten to the dozen I tentatively turned the key.

The wife was standing by with the video camera and guess what “NOTHING”.

After much guffawing and leg pulling by the “video operator” I traced the fault to the feed for the coil packs not being connected.

So here we go again, still feeling a lot of trepidation and also sensing that “the video operator” was going to get fed up and go back inside to watch “Eastenders” I said a little prayer and turned the key.

IT LIVES IT BREATHES

Only a short burst as I still have to connect the water, but at least it let me give a smug smile to my now very impressed “video operator”

Apologies for missing out previous parts of the build, I will add these over the coming week or so. I just couldn’t resist posting the first run.

It’s A Dirty Job

2010-03-09T22:10:00.001Z

The last part of the roll bar fitting was to fill them with expanding foam.

I think I might of put to much in.

Apparently the idea behind the foam is it is supposed to deaden the road noise sound of the roll bar attached to the chassis.

Roll Bar Hoops

2010-03-08T15:51:00.001Z

Having fitted the body I decided the next task was the roll bar. After talking with Andy at GD and reading a few other peoples experiences I decided to wing it and make it up as I went along using a mixture of them all.

First job was to mark the body through the chassis mounting holes. I did this by drilling a hole through the centre of a 12mm bolt.

The bolt can then be pushed into the chassis hole until it touches the body, the drill is then pushed into it and used to drill through the body.

Once I had this point on the inside of the boot I could then cut a 64mm hole out. This would give me plenty of clearance around the roll bar.

I then put a 12mm bolt through the hole in the chassis and plumbed it up to the underside of the boot and marked it.

I didn’t have a plumb bob so he little tool I made for centering the chassis mount did the job.

It is also worth noting that you will have to climb in an out of the boot a few times during this whole process. As I was working on my own in the garage I unfortunately didn’t get any pictures of a 6’ 3”, 46 year old man curled up inside a very small boot.

With this point marked on the underside of the boot body a small 3mm pilot hole can then be drilled through to the topside. This was then rechecked with the plumb bob.

Once I was happy that the pilot hole was correct I drilled through from the top using a 54mm holesaw which just allowed enough clearance for the 51mm leg. This was repeated for the other leg.

The roll bar can then be inserted the wrong way round and hopefully everything fits.

Once I was happy that it all lined up I made a cardboard template up showing the three leg positions. I then placed this in the boot and allowed the legs to pass through it. This then gave me a hole position for the rear leg.

The rear leg fixing bracket could then be placed over the hole, marked and cut out.

All the holes in the boot floor need a bit of clearance so as not to rub on the body and squeak and I will be making some rubber seals for them later.

I then employed the same method as before for marking the underside of the boot place a bolt through the support bracket bolt that to the chassis, check that it is vertical. “climb back into the boot again” and mark it, you know the rest.

Once happy with the results I then used the old 10mm washer trick to get a nice gap around the roll bars.

This was then opened up using the trusty old Dremel with a flap wheel.

All that remained was to bolt it down which will be done later.

One down one to go.

All done the first one took about 3 hours, but confident in my method the second one only took about half that.

Body On

2010-03-07T15:38:00.000Z

Fitted the body today, no real drama except for the fact that there were were only two2 of us. So me being ever gracious I gave my mate the heavy boot end, telling him I need to be at the front to guide it over the radiator.

All the body mount fixing holes lined up OK after a bit of huffing, puffing, raising, lowering, sliding and shuffling. Bar two on the transmission tunnel that need a couple of mill taking out of them.

Only the one picture as my friend would of been even less happy if I’d ask him to “hang in there” while I took a few pics.

Bulkhead Joint

2010-03-06T15:52:00.000Z

The manual advises that the gap be filled with body filler and then sanded back 2mm before coating with gel.

Having done this it is just a case of sanding it smooth and flat with wet and dry and polishing up. The problem I had here is that I always seemed to sand back down to the filler by the time I was happy with the finish.

So my recommendation is just to build it up in gel coat and not bother with the filler. Having done this things became a lot more straight forward.

Then back to the wet and dry again

Followed by the polish

Bits & Bobs Before The Body Goes On

2010-03-05T15:54:00.000Z

After sorting the engine bay out it was time to finish all the bits before dropping on the body on.

First up the body mounts that support the transmission tunnel needed a bit of fettling.

The bolting of the body on these is optional but they do space the body of the chassis tunnel and if not chamfered off the top of the mount fouls the tunnel top. If you are using a grinder to do this I suggest you wear a mask as it gives off some pretty nasty fumes.

Second on the list was the tunnel top sheet. A few measurements and a big hole saw later it was ready for fixing.

Finally having a look around I noticed I hadn’t safety wired the diff carrier bolts.

You also need to apply some strips of foam rubber to the tunnel top sheet and cut out a hole in the transmission tunnel body which I did but in my excitement at getting the body on I forgot to take some pictures.

Exhaust 2

2010-03-03T15:53:00.000Z

With the bracket sorted I set to building up the exhaust. A smear of RTV silicon on the pipe ends before insertion and i was ready to install.

I decided to do away with the supplied U clamps and use Mikalor Stainless Super Clamps instead. There is no real reason for this, just that I think they look a lot neater.

After a bit of pushing and shoving it all went into place nicely.

I’ve got the cherry bombs now but will fit them after the body goes on. As the support brackets bolt through the boot.

Carpet Capers

2010-02-22T20:06:00.001Z

I had a call from Andy today. It appears that the carpet suppliers have gone bust and are in the process of being taken over. The upshot of this is that the new carpet people are quoting 12 weeks until they get everything sorted. The trimmers have offered him an alternative but he thinks the colour is wrong and it's a bit bathroomy.

After talking with him I have decided to wait the 12 weeks and will either fit the carpets at a later date or fit some cheapo stuff until they are ready.

Exhaust Sorted

2010-02-18T22:00:00.001Z

I took the exhaust into GD today. What I initially thought were that the cat pipes were short, but it turned out that the centre bobbin support bracket was in the wrong place. It would appear that there is a slight difference in the placing of the T56 5 speed gearbox mount and mine which is a 6 speed. Lester whisked it away, a quick flip over of the support bracket and 10 minutes later he had it all sorted. Customer service at its best.

No excuse now, just need to fit it.

Exhaust

2010-02-16T22:01:00.001Z

I dropped into GD on Friday and picked up the exhaust

Andy is still waiting for the cherry bombs but there is enough here for me to be getting on with.

First job was to fix the shiny new headers to the engine

This was all pretty straight forward although I had to remove and refit the coil packs to squeeze them in. I had the original gaskets which are reusable so I just gave them a smear of RTV silicon and bolted them on.

I then started to assemble the cat pipes and cross over. At this point things started to look amiss. It would appear that the cat pipes were to short, a quick call to Andy at GD and he tended to agree and suggested that I drop them back in for Lester to extend them a little.

Under Body Sealant

2010-02-16T21:34:00.001Z

Another job that has been on going for the last few weeks is the applying of the sealant to the inner wheel arches and other vulnerable areas to stone chips. I used Isoflex Liquid Rubber for this.

Two coats were applied, it was quite difficult to brush on as it is quite thick. I did try warming it up a little but it didn’t seem to make much difference.

Radiator Round Two

2010-02-16T21:16:00.003Z

I took the radiator down to Westons my friendly local fabricators and got them to set to doing a few alterations. First up was to change the bottom hose outlet, I had made up a 90 degree bend for them and they welded it on.

I then got them to weld up the top where I had chopped off the filler and sort a centre aluminium strut for the fan mounts.

It was then off back to the garage to start mounting the fans. I began by making a couple of aluminium brackets which I then fixed to the side plates of the radiator by drilling and tapping a 6mm thread into them. I also tapped a couple into the centre support strut.

All that remained was to bolt the two fans onto the brackets and centre strut.

Add a few bits of rubber hose to the mounting lugs and drop it in. Job done.

Radiator & Alterations

2010-01-25T08:48:00.001Z

The radiator I am fitting is aluminum, it isn’t the GD one, but one I was offered by a friend. This had its pros and cons. “The Pros” it’s free “The Cons” it doesn’t quite fit and it was free.

This meant cutting the top chassis radiator brackets off, making some more and welding them back on.

The radiator is slightly higher than the GD one so I made a longer bracket. This will throw up another problem which I will explain later.

Here they are all ready to be welded on. Now my welding’s not as good as Lesters at GD but I’m just about confident enough to tackle this.

After a bit of grinding and fettling I was happy and gave them a coat of etch primer ready for spraying.

The finished result you’d hardly know the difference.I've got to take it to my local fabricators for a spot of alloy welding here and there so I'll get that filler cap chopped off.
Now for that other problem I mentioned earlier, while it all looks good and will perform well I’m sure, the actual radiator is about 40mm taller than the GD one. This may cause a problem when coming to fit the air filter. I have a couple of solutions in mind so watch this space.

!!! AAAAHHH !!!

2010-01-25T08:35:00.000Z

While I’m waiting for some more parts fro GD I though I’d tackle the engine loom wiring. I am using the original LS1 loom and ECU. This will be fine but is in need a little modification.

So lets set to it and do a bit of exposing.

!!! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH !!!

Not to worry as always there is always someone out there who has done it all before and special thanks go out to Jim off the Cobra Club Club Forum for his list of the wires required for my needs.

So after an afternoon of identifying and eradicating I found I didn’t need all this ( I HOPE )

Tape it all back up, tidy up with some bits of conduit and that’s it, all sorted. Don’t know what all the fuss was about.

All the loose wires are marked up ready for connection to the relevant gauges and ancillaries etc.

Again thanks to Jim, you made a daunting task quite straight forward.

Fitting The Engine

2010-01-24T22:18:00.002Z

The day had arrived. It was time to drop that big V8 in the chassis. I bolted on the alloy engine plates that GD had made for me and the engine mounts and it was time to “rock and roll “

If you fancy making your own plates there is plenty of information on LS1Tech and HERE or HERE

I also got GD to knock up a plate for the gearbox mount. I forgot to second coat it so I’ll have to get round to that. This is another part you could make yourself quite easily.

I decided to take the accidental reverse solenoid out and make a plate to blank it off as this feature is not used and it also allowed me to centre the gearbox better.
With the engine and gearbox all trussed up like a chicken we maneuvered it into place.

To be honest all went well here and it slipped in without any complications at all.

Look at that just wish I could start it and here the beast running. Still good things come to those who wait.

HAPPY NEW YEAR

2010-01-03T19:00:00.003Z

Well what a fun time I’m having. Rubbing down has got to be one of my most loathed jobs, her indoors always does it when we do the decorating but for some reason I just couldn’t get her to take an interest in the Cobra. I'm sure it was the fact that it’s freezing outside or she’d of been out there like a shot ( lol )
I started off cutting out and drilling all the holes that GD had kindly marked out for me.

Next it was onto the flash lines on the body, armed with all the necessary tools I set to it.

After a few hours (seemed like days ) I started to make progress.

The next stage is to polish it up using Farecla and the buffing machine.

Having got a bit fed up with all the rubbing down I thought I’d trial fit the doors. Now in the build manual it says the doors are pre marked when it’s in the mould. Well mine weren't.
So after a bit of measuring and carefully opening out of the holes I managed to get the catches fitted and the doors swinging.

So that’s it I’m happy with the door fitment. It will need some minor adjustments when the rubbers are fitted etc.
Still not wanting to go back to the garage and carry on with the rubbing down, it’s freezing out there, I decided to strip the doors down and paint all the metalwork. I did undercoat it all in the garage standing as close as possible to the heater. BBrrrrrrrrrrrrr

But for the top coat I commandeered the conservatory, much warmer and thankfully a very understanding wife.

They still need a couple of coats but I’m getting there.

Body Arrival

2009-12-23T08:34:00.001Z

Well woke up this morning full of cold and looked out the window to this.

Fortunately not to bad so popped along to the van hire place to pick up the Luton.

4m long x 2m wide so body should fit just nicely.

While I was at GD I nipped upstairs and took a couple of photos of the body being made, I was lucky that the one in the moulds was the same colour as mine (Copy Cat)

It really is a thorough process. The jigs holding the moulds look as substantial as my chassis, so not much chance of any movement there

So after a quick drive back I was the proud owner of a RAL 5004 GD427 Body.

The body looks fantastic. A superb finish straight out of the mould. The colour is brilliant too, blue in some lights and black in others, just what I was hoping. Once it’s got the bright work on and been decked out in some nice sumptuous leather I reckon it’ll be a real head turner

Right off to the garage now for a couple of weeks to get sanded and polished up.

!! Great News !!

2009-12-15T17:32:00.001Z

Andy from GD called today to tell me the engine mounts are ready………. and wait for it……………

SO IS THE BODY

I told him he was just like Santa and he said he’s going to wrap it with a big bow and everything.

I’ve booked the van and will pick it up on Monday. So it’ll be out with the wet and dry over Christmas to get all the shut lines done, gel coat the engine bay, cut the holes and polish.

Body Shell Colour

2009-12-06T19:39:00.001Z

!! Stop Press !! After much deliberation I have decided to go with RAL 5004 Black Blue for the gel coat colour.

I know it’s pretty boring but I just bring myself to be more adventurous and went with what I’d seen already and liked.

I actually ordered the body a few weeks ago and Andy said there could be a chance I’d get it before Christmas. I’m not going to hold my breath though as he has said he is quite busy with a couple of GDT70 to get out among others.

Front End Round Two

2009-12-06T19:20:00.002Z

After my less than pleasing outcome to the finish of the front end build I have now stripped it all back down and redone all the geometry. I am pleased to report that I now have all wheels present and accounted for.
Toe in 1mm overall….Camber 1/2 degree negative both wheels….Castor 4 1/4 degrees….Full Droop to Full Bump about 5mm projected over 3 metres.
All measurements are well with in recommended guidelines. I’m still unsure of exactly went wrong the first time around, but it’s all sorted now so I can sleep at night

While I was at it I set the front hub end float and checked the disk run out.

Everything was ok here so it was just a case of fitting the locking washer and split pin.

Then the dust cap followed by the wheel and repeat for the other side.

Well not much else to do now until Andy sorts out the engine mounts.

Let The Wagon Roll (Well Not Quite)

2009-12-04T20:01:00.002Z

The final job on the front suspension was to fitted the shock absorbers and finish off the brake pipes.

Four Wheels & Rolling

But hang on a minute something is not quite right. N/S front looks OK, O/S front is toeing out quite dramatically, Now that cant be right.

Not quite sure what has happened but after a bit of research on other build sites one of the things that is wrong is my calculation / method for making sure the front wheels are facing in the right direction.

So it of with the wheels tomorrow and start again.

Hey Ho I’m sure there will be plenty more of head scratching moments

The Dreaded Bump Steer

2009-12-03T17:55:00.002Z

Now I’m not sure why but I wasn’t really looking forward to this bit. I had read with interest Simons detailed account of setting bump steer using magic and mirrors and also looked at the GD method as described in the video and in the build manual. In the end I decided on a slight adaptation of this one by one of the Cobra Club members.
I started by taking a piece of angle and drilling a hole in it centrally. I then placed this on the stub axle with a packer washer behind and tightened it up.

Next I placed the laser level on the angle and checked the chassis was level in all directions as well as the laser level.

You then need to place a piece of paper 3m away at a height where the laser will hit it, making sure it is vertical or as I did just draw a vertical line on it using a spirit level. The suspension is then set at ride height determined by the top wishbone being horizontal. I then plotted this point where the laser hit.

.Using a trolley jack under the axle you can then jack it through full droop to full bump and back again noting the movement of toe in / toe out as the laser dot moves with reference to your marked vertical line and plotting it.
It is then just a case of moving the steering rack up or down to bring the dot as close to the vertical line as possible as shown in the video below:

Now I am not sure how accurate this is and if my method is correct but I would welcome any comments or suggestions. And yes I do realise that I’ve spelt height wrong on the piece of paper. No excuse really it was late and I didn’t have my spellchecker working at the time.

More Front Steering Geometry & Steering Rack

2009-12-03T12:55:00.001Z

I fitted the steering rack to the slotted mounts on the chassis. Andy supplies the rack with polyurethane bushes which are already split so they just pop straight on. The track rod ends are then screwed on and inserted into GD’s supplied new steering arms

Once the rack was fitted it needed to be centered, this is done by marking the input shaft and setting a datum on the steering rack with the aid of some masking tape. I counted the number of turns from full right lock and marked it then back to full left lock and mark it. Then turn the rack back to 1/2 the number of turns between the marks.

So the next job on the list was to set the toe in. I did this by clamping a 1m long piece of angle to each disc face and then measuring the front and back of the angle then subtracting the rear measurement from the front to give me a toe in/out figure

Our friends at GD recommend 0mm to 1.5mm toe in overall , so it was just a case of winding the track rods in or out until the required toe in was obtained.

Well now I have the correct toe in, but which way are the wheels facing. For this it was back to my trusty bit of angle clamped to the centerline of the chassis as marked when setting the rear axle up.

With the laser level clamped to the disc I marked the red dot on the angle, then repeated it on the other side. I then measured the distance between the two marked points and marked the centre of that on the angle. I then moved the angle so the centerlines on the angle and the chassis corresponded and adjusted the track rods until the laser came back to the marks made on the angle. Now we have all wheels pointing in the right direction.

I Hope

Front Suspension Set Up

2009-12-03T11:35:00.001Z

I at last got the wishbone sleeves back from Wards and guess what they were still to tight except for one. I decided that I would break out the emery cloth and rub the shafts down a bit, 10 minutes later they were a nice snug fit.

The build up of the wishbones is pretty straight forward remembering to use copper grease which should help to stop any squeaking and aid smooth movement.

Once all the ball joints were torqued up it was time to set the camber. The GD recommendations for this are 0 degree to 1 degree negative. I added a 1/4” shims to give it a mean angle and then adjusted it by adding removing shims to get the required result.

About 1/2 degree negative

To set the caster shims were added or removed to the top ball joint.

Caster is required to make the wheel follow a straight line without assistance and create self centering. The angle required is between 3 degrees and 5 degrees. I used Simons very handy template for this operation. It can be found here. I’m not sure what I and doubtless many other GD builders would do without Simons site.

As you can see with the template placed up against the disc brake lugs which conveniently represent a line parallel to the steering axis I have managed to get a caster angle of 4 degrees.

Brake Pipes

2009-11-25T21:45:00.003Z

While I’m waiting for the front wishbone sleeves to arrive I thought I would fit the brake pipes. Pretty straight forward really, especially if you use the GD kit. All the pipes are cut to the correct length with the flares and fittings already done. It’s just a case of running them along the chassis, I taped them in place until I was happy with the fit.

I then marked and drilled holes for 5mm rivnuts, my right angled drill attachment came in useful here.
While I was drilling holes I took the opportunity to spray some Waxyol inside the chassis tubes.

The brake pipe was then fixed to the chassis using rubber lined P Clips and some 5mm button head allen bolts.

The P clips need to be at no more than 300mm centres to satisfy the IVA Regulations. That’s another job ticked off.
I should get the wishbone sleeves by the end off the week, so it will be on with the front suspension over the weekend.

Is it a Plane Is it a Car No it’s 2 Wheels on my Wagon

2009-11-25T07:51:00.001Z

After finishing the arduous task of the rear suspension set up I couldn’t resist dropping the wheels on for a look

Toe In Toe Out Chapter 2

2009-11-23T13:59:00.005Z

Finally managed to get the rear geometry sorted out. What a mess around that is, makes you wonder how Jaguar ever did it and how accurate they were. No pics to post as it’s basically the same procedure as before but more of a pain in the a**e.

The results were a lot better with 0.99mm toe in overall, well within the tolerances set by Gardner Douglas 0.25 – 2.00mm and a line of thrust to the O/S of 0.25mm over 2400m is nothing to worry about.
I also spoke to Ed at Ward Engineering today and the front wishbone sleeves are in the post so front suspension build up is imminent.

Delivery From SVC

2009-11-19T11:36:00.003Z

Last Sunday I went to the Classic Car Show at the NEC. While I was there I visited the SVC stand and managed to do a bit of bartering, which resulted in a very good saving on the wipers and lighting package.

Now I know it’s a bit early for these bits, but you have strike while the irons hot. But it was like Christmas had come early with all those shiny bits.

Wishbone Woes

2009-11-19T11:23:00.003Z

I thought I might fit the front suspension while I'm waiting for some shims for the rear diff brackets. I had already made the wishbones up with new bearings and Polybushes

I offered the lower wishbone up to the chassis and the fulcrum pin wouldn't go through the Polybush sleeve. Now Andy states in the build manual that sometimes reconditioned shafts are slightly over size due to plating and may need sanding down with emery cloth. Mine are the originals, so I took out the digital calipers and checked, bang on at 13/16. So lets measure the sleeves.

0.8095” some 0.003” smaller. A quick telephone call to Wards and Ed says “ no they’re not right send them back and I’ll change them for some that fit. So I'm now waiting for shims and replacement sleeves.

Don’t Forget the Boot Support

2009-11-19T11:03:00.002Z

I wondered what this bit was

Undo the bolts and fit it to the rear of the chassis, like I should of done in the first place.

Toe In Toe Out

2009-11-19T10:53:00.004Z

It’s time to get technical and find out what the rear axle geometry is like. I dropped the chassis on and started to take some measurements to find the centre of the hubs and the centre of the chassis. With this done I clamped a laser level to the rear hubs and projected it down to a piece of timber clamped to the front cross member.

After taking the measurements I arrived at the result shown below:

Looking at this I appear to have to much toe in on the N/S and toe out on the O/S with a line of thrust 4mm towards the O/S all be it over 2400mm. The recommended as advised by the GD manual is 0.25mm – 1.00mm toe in each side. 0.5mm – 2.00mm toe in overall. Mine certainly isn’t this with an overall measurement of 0.18mm.

Just in case anybody is interested the formulas for working out are shown below:

So it’s out with the spanners and shims (when I get them) to do a bit of correcting.

Rear Axle

2009-11-16T19:16:00.004Z

First job was to align the rear calipers on the disc brakes by adding or removing shims so they were central with in .0010”. No problems here so wired the fixing bolts up and moved on.

Right, onto the pivot brackets and chassis carrier brackets. I replaced the shims as per the strip down and the chassis carrier bracket went on without any trouble. Not sure about the toe in / toe out and after reading Simons Blog I will leave the bolt wiring until I’ve checked it.

Next on the list was to add the drive shafts and rear hubs. The hubs needed to be tightened on to the drive shafts splines to around 110ft/lbs torque. After applying some loctite to the splines I used Simons method of stopping the hub turning with a piece of timber with a hole drilled in it.

Simons picture shown here as I forgot to take one. Hope he doesn’t mind, I’m sure he’ll let me know if he does.

The hubs were then added to the forked end of the wishbone and shims added to take out any play.

This whole assembly was then added to the differential, first of all locating the wishbone and inner fulcrum bolt along with all the seals washers etc 32 pieces in all. A little bit fiddly but made easier with a spare piece of round bar.

Then the drive shafts are attached to the differential. These will have to be shimmed out to give a camber reading of 0 degrees as specified in the GD Build Manual.The differential was set 8" off the ground on some timber and the wishbones set on 6” timber blocks to give the effect of the axle at normal ride height. The whole thing was checked for level and the shimming began.

I used some old nuts while determining the correct shimming so as not to ruin the new steel locknuts.

After a bit of messing about I managed to get the correct setting, as shown by this handy little camber gauge.

Quite pleased with the afternoons work. It was good to see all those rusty bits finally returned to there former glory.

Body Colour Suggestions

2009-11-12T16:46:00.003Z

At the risk of opening myself up to ridicule I’m going to put it out there to everybody as to suggestions for a body colour. As I’m not having the car sprayed I am limited to any RAL COLOUR which will be in gel coat, there is still a fair old choice.

I was thinking of something to contrast/compliment nicely with the chassis colour RAL 5022.

So go on let me know what you think I’m sure there are plenty of people out there with a good eye for colour.

Don’t be offended though if I just take no notice of anybody and have it black

The Chassis Has Arrived

2009-11-12T15:40:00.007Z

I got that call I’d been waiting for from Andy at GD to say that the chassis was ready and waiting So a quick nip down the road in a van I hired for half a day.

Popped it in the back with a few other bits, steering rack, shocks, springs etc.

Here it is in all its naked glory. The colour is RAL 5022

Chassis No GD427J268

No excuse now, Just need to get on and build the thing. So it will be in the garage tomorrow and Saturday, after a good study of the build manual tonight, but not Sunday as I’m off to the Classic Car Show at the NEC.

Rear Differential

2009-10-21T14:54:00.002+01:00

Still waiting for the chassis but dropped in and picked up the rear differential which has been reconditioned by a very kind member of the Cobra Club. All new bearing and seals etc, a superb first class job. Thank you very much Russell.

!!! Great News !!!

2009-10-07T20:38:00.004+01:00

Just couldn’t help myself and gave Andy a call at Gardner Douglas this afternoon, I was really glad I did, the chassis is in the jig now being welded and off to powder coating on Tuesday, so should be ready next weekend or the one after.

Yippee

Waiting For The Chassis

2009-10-06T20:07:00.002+01:00

When I ordered the chassis, Andy at Gardner Douglas said it would be 6 weeks, then ummed and ahhed a bit and said “you’d better give us up to 8 weeks as we’ve got quite a bit on at the moment”. Well I’m into my 7th week now and still no news. I am going to have to give him a ring. I don’t think he realises that the suspense is killing me and every time I log onto this damn blog, the first thing I see is that bl**#y timer ticking down.

There will be no more to report until I get the chassis as everything is now done and waiting. I might drop something on about the rear differential when I get it back from its refurbishment, which is being done by a kind member on the Cobra Club Forum.

Brakes

2009-10-06T19:50:00.004+01:00

This is another area that a lot of cobra builders send away. But on strip down and close inspection the bores had no marks and the calipers were in quite good condition generally. I did replace all the pistons and seals though, new pads etc.

I decided to give the front calipers a nice coat of Foliatec Yellow Caliper Paint. Maybe a bit gay looking but it can’t all be black, silver and chrome, Can It ???

The rear calipers just got a waft over with the old silver spray

I actually remembered to take some before and after shots of the handbrake calipers. They got the same treatment as the rears with the silver spray. I can’t build up these as I am still waiting for some springs from Wards. Anybody know that feeling ?

Looking around at some of the other builders who have sent them away I feel that I would probably do the same on my next build as the cost difference is very small and you get nice shiny galvanised brakes that are pressure tested etc. That said, there is always satisfaction I feel, in doing it yourself.

Engine Dilemma

2009-10-02T17:30:00.002+01:00

Now the engine was quite a dilemma. Should I go for the traditional small block Chevy / Ford 350/351 and stroke it up or a newer injection model like an Chevy LS1 or LS6.
After more or less deciding on an old Ford 351 that I would then strip and rebuild into a 393 stroker over the winter months I happened to come across a 2001 TransAm Firebird Ram Air that had been in an accident with a LS1 5.7 litre in it.
It had only done 35000 miles and was still in the car, which let me hear it running and check the oil pressure and it also came with all the ancillaries, starter, alternator, ECU etc. Not forgetting the T56 6 speed gearbox.

So that was it change of plan and now the proud owner. I know some critics / traditionalists will say it’s not correct for the car and it’s a bit gay but I’m more than pleased with it and that’s what counts.

Chevrolet LS1 5.7 Litre V8 350 Horsepower

Don’t Look Much Now But Wait Until The Puppy's In & Running

Front and Rear Hub Refurbishment

2009-10-02T10:14:00.002+01:00

The hub refurbishment was pretty straight forward.

The fronts just involved new stub axles, bearings and seals. All torqued up and correct end float set. Again no pictures of the build, just the finished article complete with new EBC discs.

The rear hubs were a bit more involved and took me back to my engineering days with the old DTI .

I found this video on You Tube which was really helpful.

Yet again no pictures of my efforts but here is finished article !! I really will have to start taking more pictures !!

Now on to the brake caliper refurbishment.

More Pictures

2009-10-02T09:00:00.002+01:00

As I get to grips with this blog diary it is becoming evident that I will have to take more pictures. The problem being that I get so involved with the building of the car that I don’t remember until I’ve finished, stand back and look at the end result and think,
“oh bother I should have taken some pictures of that”
Because I am at the point now were all my donor bits are finished when the chassis arrives I will endeavor to do a bit more of the “David Bailey”

Painting

2009-09-30T12:29:00.002+01:00

Once all the bits were nicely blasted it was time to paint them. This involved a very lengthy process with POR15 which works very well, but has to be recoated when the first coat is touch dry but with finger drag.

After giving them a good going over with POR15 Metal Ready it was 2 coats of Por15 Rust Preventative Paint followed by 2 coats of POR15 Chassis Coat Black. With a wait time of between 2 and 4 hours for drying it was going to be a long day.

The results are quite rewarding once done.

As note to myself the next time I must spend more time masking the important parts as I ended up stripping off nearly as much paint as a put on

Sandblasting

2009-09-29T12:17:00.001+01:00

I decided I would sand blast the parts myself (what a fool). Out comes my DIY compressor, no chance, not enough continuous pressure. A quick call to the hire company and a more industrial one sorted!!!!
Well, when it turned up my jaw nearly hit the floor, I just didn’t imagine what it would look like.

Do you think it's big enough !!

Unfortunately I have no pictures of me doing the actual blasting (honest), safe to say that it included a mask, goggles, long gloves and a large sheet with holes for eyes tied over my head (lol). What a fun couple of days that was and I'm not sure the neighbors enjoyed it much either.
Asked the question would I do it again, I probably would as it gave me a strange sense of satisfaction to see all those rusty parts coming back to life.

The Stripping Begins

2009-09-28T14:29:00.000+01:00

Started off with bits stripped from my XJ6 Jaguar. A nice way to spend a sunny day.

Front Sub Frame

Rear Sub Frame

Some of the bits I will need

The bits left over