Monday, 24 May 2010

Biting The Bullet

After finding every last little job to do except polish the body I could side step it no longer. I thought I’d secured the services of a master polisher to do it for me, but he didn’t materialise this weekend and as the IVA is looming in the next couple of weeks (hopefully) I set to on the hottest day of the year Cool with the buffer and lots of Farecla.


I used the Farecla Profile range, Paul at GD uses this and gets absolutely stunning results. You start with Profile 100 which will remove wet and dry marks from grade 800 and then work your way through the range using 200, 300, 500, Glaze or G10 and finally a nice wax.


I used Harly Wax is made from 100% Pure premium yellow Brazilian carnauba and gives a really nice shine.


While not as good as Paul's masterpieces I am very pleased with the end result considering my short attention span when it comes to polishing. Peace Sign

Time now to bolt all the bits back on and get those carpets in ready for the IVA.

Wednesday, 19 May 2010

Pedalbox Fitting

I’m not really going to say much about the fitting of the pedalbox because it would involve to many expletives. suffice to say it’s done.



The main problem is the weight of it and the tight confines of the space you are working in. Some people have used a spreader plate on the back, but I was happy with some large thick washers as the GRP is over 10mm thick at this point. There is also a strengthening bar that fits to the steering column support bar which I will fit at a later date. So all in all I don’t think it’s going anywhere.

On to the carpets now. I just hope you don’t have to take the b*?**y pedalbox out to fit them.

Sunday, 16 May 2010


One of the new requirements for IVA is the need for a headrest. This can either be built into the seat or fixed to the car in some way. There are various measurements and rules that have to be adhered to depending on which route you go down. If anybody wants to delve into it more, all the information can be found in the IVA Manual HERE

I decided to have seats without the headrests built in and GD provide a headrest that fix to the roll bar.


I think they looks quite smart, but unfortunately Mr IVA man says it is to small.

So I set about making some larger ones.

The first step was to make a template out of some card and then use it to cut some 12mm ply.


I then put a radius on the edge with a router and with help from a small chisel and some epoxy resin I captured some M10 nuts on the foam faced side of the ply.


Next I shaped a piece of 75mm thick foam to fit and stuck it on.


Then came the tricky bit of wrapping the vinyl around it. Using what I can only say was a lot of brute force and a very small amount of ignorance, I managed to stretch and pull it so that I was happy with the result.


All I needed to do then was trim off the access, cut a piece for the back and I was all done.


I am quite pleased with end result and they should be fine for the IVA, my fingers are a little sore from all the pulling though.


Just another one to do now Sigh

Pedalbox Arrival

I got the call from Andy at GD that I’d been waiting for on Thursday, The pedalbox was ready for collection Dancing


I have to admit that it is a very nice piece of engineering and bl*$*y heavy too, which should make for a few choice words when fitting it this week.

Wednesday, 12 May 2010


Put the symbols to work last night and added a couple to the stalk that controls the horn.


Tuesday, 11 May 2010

IVA Application

Rang Andy today at GD and still no pedal box but it is imminent. As this is the last part to fit besides the carpet I have decide to get my application in for the IVA. The first or second week in June should be fine if it’s available. I might even make the Newark Kit Car Show, all be it in an unpolished state, because I amAt wits end totally cheesed off with the whole buffing thing and would advise anybody with as shorter boredom threshold as me, to get it done by GD. Any people out there (with masochistic tendencies) who are able and willing to do it for me (maybe for a small fee) please feel free to put yourself forward. Call me

Here is a top tip for anybody doing a build with an LSx engine. MAKE SURE YOU GET THE ENGINE NUMBER BEFORE IT GOES IN as the tiny etched numbers on the block are just about impossible to see after the body is on. But after a lot of shuffling and shining of the torch I managed it.

Also picked up a sheet of STICKERS today, that will be very useful for labeling all the switches etc.


Monday, 3 May 2010

Steering Column

At the same time as picking up the instruments I got a steering column cowl. After marking out the aluminium I cut the slots for the stalks and hole for the ignition barrel



The leather was then stuck to the cowl using some spray adhesive.


The hole in the leather for the ignition lock is cut under size and then the ignition lock is popped out by turning the key to the first position and then using a 2mm Allen key pushed into the small hole in the barrel.


It is important that once the lock is out, not to turn the key or move the steering shaft. The lock is reinserted by placing a screwdriver inside the barrel and pushing the U shaped thing down so it clicks. The lock is them pushed home trapping the leather. The barrel will need to click twice for it to lock back in place.



I have the instruments at last, so set to work on the dashboard. The first task was to scribe the dash in to the scuttle to allow 5mm clearance and then drill seven 3.2mm holes to take the M4 dome head bolts. The holes are drilled small so as to give a really tight fit and stop them moving when you fix the dash in place. I added some epoxy glue under the heads just to be sure.



I then marked out the dash for the various gauges and switches.


Then it was out with Dremel. The job was made quite easy using the radius attachment.


Once this was done I stuck the foam on using spray adhesive and stretched the leather over gluing it on the back, which I thought I’d took some pictures of but obviously forgotThinking

All the gauges and switches were then pushed in, the end result is quite satisfying. I used some hole punches to cut the leather for the switches and warning lights. I punched each hole 2mm smaller than the actual switch/warning light size.


I then made up some mini looms for the gauges,switches and warning light and it was already to plug and play.


Things to note are that you have thin out the back of the dash where the Lucas switches are as there isn’t enough thread to get the nut on with the leather and foam.

I will add the piping to the top just before I final fit the dash.