Monday, 8 March 2010

Roll Bar Hoops

Having fitted the body I decided the next task was the roll bar. After talking with Andy at GD and reading a few other peoples experiences I decided to wing it and make it up as I went along using a mixture of them all.

First job was to mark the body through the chassis mounting holes. I did this by drilling a hole through the centre of a 12mm bolt.


The bolt can then be pushed into the chassis hole until it touches the body, the drill is then pushed into it and used to drill through the body.

Once I had this point on the inside of the boot I could then cut a 64mm hole out. This would give me plenty of clearance around the roll bar.

I then put a 12mm bolt through the hole in the chassis and plumbed it up to the underside of the boot and marked it.



I didn’t have a plumb bob so he little tool I made for centering the chassis mount did the job.

It is also worth noting that you will have to climb in an out of the boot a few times during this whole process. As I was working on my own in the garage I unfortunately didn’t get any pictures of a 6’ 3”, 46 year old man curled up inside a very small boot. Tongue out

With this point marked on the underside of the boot body a small 3mm pilot hole can then be drilled through to the topside. This was then rechecked with the plumb bob.

Once I was happy that the pilot hole was correct I drilled through from the top using a 54mm holesaw which just allowed enough clearance for the 51mm leg. This was repeated for the other leg.


The roll bar can then be inserted the wrong way round and hopefully everything fits.

Once I was happy that it all lined up I made a cardboard template up showing the three leg positions. I then placed this in the boot and allowed the legs to pass through it. This then gave me a hole position for the rear leg.


The rear leg fixing bracket could then be placed over the hole, marked and cut out.


All the holes in the boot floor need a bit of clearance so as not to rub on the body and squeak and I will be making some rubber seals for them later.

I then employed the same method as before for marking the underside of the boot place a bolt through the support bracket bolt that to the chassis, check that it is vertical. “climb back into the boot again”  and mark it, you know the rest.

Once happy with the results I then used the old 10mm washer trick to get a nice gap around the roll bars.


This was then opened up using the trusty old Dremel with a flap wheel.


All that remained was to bolt it down which will be done later.


One down one to go.


All done the first one took about 3 hours, but confident in my method the second one only took about half that.

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