Tuesday, 9 March 2010

It’s A Dirty Job

The last part of the roll bar fitting was to fill them with expanding foam.

DSC01548

I think I might of put to much in.

Apparently the idea behind the foam is it is supposed to deaden the road noise sound of the roll bar attached to the chassis.

Monday, 8 March 2010

Roll Bar Hoops

Having fitted the body I decided the next task was the roll bar. After talking with Andy at GD and reading a few other peoples experiences I decided to wing it and make it up as I went along using a mixture of them all.

First job was to mark the body through the chassis mounting holes. I did this by drilling a hole through the centre of a 12mm bolt.

DSC01568

The bolt can then be pushed into the chassis hole until it touches the body, the drill is then pushed into it and used to drill through the body.

Once I had this point on the inside of the boot I could then cut a 64mm hole out. This would give me plenty of clearance around the roll bar.

I then put a 12mm bolt through the hole in the chassis and plumbed it up to the underside of the boot and marked it.

DSC01567

DSC01560

I didn’t have a plumb bob so he little tool I made for centering the chassis mount did the job.

It is also worth noting that you will have to climb in an out of the boot a few times during this whole process. As I was working on my own in the garage I unfortunately didn’t get any pictures of a 6’ 3”, 46 year old man curled up inside a very small boot. Tongue out

With this point marked on the underside of the boot body a small 3mm pilot hole can then be drilled through to the topside. This was then rechecked with the plumb bob.

Once I was happy that the pilot hole was correct I drilled through from the top using a 54mm holesaw which just allowed enough clearance for the 51mm leg. This was repeated for the other leg.

DSC01561 

The roll bar can then be inserted the wrong way round and hopefully everything fits.

Once I was happy that it all lined up I made a cardboard template up showing the three leg positions. I then placed this in the boot and allowed the legs to pass through it. This then gave me a hole position for the rear leg.

DSC01562

The rear leg fixing bracket could then be placed over the hole, marked and cut out.

DSC01563

All the holes in the boot floor need a bit of clearance so as not to rub on the body and squeak and I will be making some rubber seals for them later.

I then employed the same method as before for marking the underside of the boot place a bolt through the support bracket bolt that to the chassis, check that it is vertical. “climb back into the boot again”  and mark it, you know the rest.

Once happy with the results I then used the old 10mm washer trick to get a nice gap around the roll bars.

DSC01565

This was then opened up using the trusty old Dremel with a flap wheel.

DSC01566

All that remained was to bolt it down which will be done later.

DSC01559

One down one to go.

DSC01573

All done the first one took about 3 hours, but confident in my method the second one only took about half that.

Sunday, 7 March 2010

Body On

Fitted the body today, no real drama except for the fact that there were were only two2 of us. So me being ever gracious I gave my mate the heavy boot end, telling him I need to be at the front to guide it over the radiator. Wink

All the body mount fixing holes lined up OK after a bit of huffing, puffing, raising, lowering, sliding and shuffling. Bar two on the transmission tunnel that need a couple of mill taking out of them.

DSC01575

Only the one picture as my friend would of been even less happy if I’d ask him to “hang in there” while I took a few pics.

Saturday, 6 March 2010

Bulkhead Joint

The manual advises that the gap be filled with body filler and then sanded back 2mm before coating with gel.

DSC01516

Having done this it is just a case of sanding it smooth and flat with wet and dry and polishing up. The problem I had here is that I always seemed to sand back down to the filler by the time I was happy with the finish.

DSC01517

So my recommendation is just to build it up in gel coat and not bother with the filler. Having done this things became a lot more straight forward.

DSC01518

Then back to the wet and dry again

DSC01519

Followed by the polish

DSC01558

Friday, 5 March 2010

Bits & Bobs Before The Body Goes On

After sorting the engine bay out it was time to finish all the bits before dropping on the body on.

First up the body mounts that support the transmission tunnel needed a bit of fettling.

DSC01549

The bolting of the body on these is optional but they do space the body of the chassis tunnel and if not chamfered off the top of the mount fouls the tunnel top. If you are using a grinder to do this I suggest you wear a mask as it gives off some pretty nasty fumes.

Second on the list was the tunnel top sheet. A few measurements and a big hole saw later it was ready for fixing.

DSC01557 

Finally having a look around I noticed I hadn’t safety wired the diff carrier bolts.

You also need to apply some strips of foam rubber to the tunnel top sheet and cut out a hole in the transmission tunnel body which I did but in my excitement at getting the body on I forgot to take some pictures.

Wednesday, 3 March 2010

Exhaust 2

With the bracket sorted I set to building up the exhaust. A smear of RTV silicon on the pipe ends before insertion and i was ready to install.

DSC01555

I decided to do away with the supplied U clamps and use Mikalor Stainless Super Clamps instead. There is no real reason for this, just that I think they look a lot neater.

DSC01554

After a bit of pushing and shoving it all went into place nicely.

DSC01556

DSC01574

I’ve got the cherry bombs now but will fit them after the body goes on. As the support brackets bolt through the boot.

DSC01572