First job was to align the rear calipers on the disc brakes by adding or removing shims so they were central with in .0010”. No problems here so wired the fixing bolts up and moved on.
Right, onto the pivot brackets and chassis carrier brackets. I replaced the shims as per the strip down and the chassis carrier bracket went on without any trouble. Not sure about the toe in / toe out and after reading Simons Blog I will leave the bolt wiring until I’ve checked it.
Next on the list was to add the drive shafts and rear hubs. The hubs needed to be tightened on to the drive shafts splines to around 110ft/lbs torque. After applying some loctite to the splines I used Simons method of stopping the hub turning with a piece of timber with a hole drilled in it.
Simons picture shown here as I forgot to take one. Hope he doesn’t mind, I’m sure he’ll let me know if he does.
The hubs were then added to the forked end of the wishbone and shims added to take out any play.
This whole assembly was then added to the differential, first of all locating the wishbone and inner fulcrum bolt along with all the seals washers etc 32 pieces in all. A little bit fiddly but made easier with a spare piece of round bar.
Then the drive shafts are attached to the differential. These will have to be shimmed out to give a camber reading of 0 degrees as specified in the GD Build Manual.The differential was set 8" off the ground on some timber and the wishbones set on 6” timber blocks to give the effect of the axle at normal ride height. The whole thing was checked for level and the shimming began.
I used some old nuts while determining the correct shimming so as not to ruin the new steel locknuts.
After a bit of messing about I managed to get the correct setting, as shown by this handy little camber gauge.
Quite pleased with the afternoons work. It was good to see all those rusty bits finally returned to there former glory.