Wednesday, 25 November 2009

Brake Pipes

While I’m waiting for the front wishbone sleeves to arrive I thought I would fit the brake pipes. Pretty straight forward really, especially if you use the GD kit. All the pipes are cut to the correct length with the flares and fittings already done. It’s just a case of running them along the chassis, I taped them in place until I was happy with the fit.

DSC01371 DSC01372



I then marked and drilled holes for 5mm rivnuts, my right angled drill attachment came in useful here.
While I was drilling holes I took the opportunity to spray some Waxyol inside the chassis tubes.

DSC01374

























The brake pipe was then fixed to the chassis using rubber lined P Clips and some 5mm button head allen bolts.

DSC01375


The P clips need to be at no more than 300mm centres to satisfy the IVA Regulations. That’s another job ticked off.
I should get the wishbone sleeves by the end off the week, so it will be on with the front suspension over the weekend.

Is it a Plane Is it a Car No it’s 2 Wheels on my Wagon

After finishing the arduous task of the rear suspension set up I couldn’t resist dropping the wheels on for a look Laughing

 

DSC01378

Monday, 23 November 2009

Toe In Toe Out Chapter 2

Finally managed to get the rear geometry sorted out. What a mess around that is, makes you wonder how Jaguar ever did it and how accurate they were. No pics to post as it’s basically the same procedure as before but more of a pain in the a**e.     


alignment2


Microsoft Word - Document1









The results were a lot better with 0.99mm toe in overall, well within the tolerances set by Gardner Douglas 0.25 – 2.00mm and a line of thrust to the O/S of 0.25mm over 2400m is nothing to worry about.
I also spoke to Ed at Ward Engineering today and the front wishbone sleeves are in the post so front suspension build up is imminent.

Thursday, 19 November 2009

Delivery From SVC

Last Sunday I went to the Classic Car Show at the NEC. While I was there I visited the SVC stand and managed to do a bit of bartering, which resulted in a very good saving on the wipers and lighting package.

DSC01369 
Now I know it’s a bit early for these bits, but you have strike while the irons hot. But it was like Christmas had come early with all those shiny bits.

Wishbone Woes

I thought I might fit the front suspension while I'm waiting for some shims for the rear diff brackets. I had already made the wishbones up with new bearings and Polybushes

I offered the lower wishbone up to the chassis and the fulcrum pin wouldn't go through the Polybush sleeve. Now Andy states in the build manual that sometimes reconditioned shafts are slightly over size due to plating and may need sanding down with emery cloth. Mine are the originals, so I took out the digital calipers and checked, bang on at 13/16. So lets measure the sleeves.

 

0.8095” some 0.003” smaller.Crying A quick telephone call to Wards and Ed says “ no they’re not right send them back and I’ll change them for some that fit. So I'm now waiting for shims and replacement sleeves.

Don’t Forget the Boot Support

I wondered what this bit was I dont know I dont know

Boot Support
Undo the bolts and fit it to the rear of the chassis, like I should of done in the first place. Striaght Face

Boot Support 1

Toe In Toe Out

It’s time to get technical and find out what the rear axle geometry is like. I dropped the chassis on and started to take some measurements to find the centre of the hubs and the centre of the chassis. With this done I clamped a laser level to the rear hubs and projected it down to a piece of timber clamped to the front cross member.

Hub CentreFront Centre 

After taking the measurements I arrived at the result shown below:

alignment2


Looking at this I appear to have to much toe in on the N/S and toe out on the O/S with a line of thrust 4mm towards the O/S all be it over 2400mm. The recommended as advised by the GD manual is 0.25mm – 1.00mm toe in each side. 0.5mm – 2.00mm toe in overall. Mine certainly isn’t this with an overall measurement of 0.18mm. 

Just in case anybody is interested the formulas for working out are shown below:

Microsoft Word - Document1 
So it’s out with the spanners and shims (when I get them) to do a bit of correcting.

Monday, 16 November 2009

Rear Axle

First job was to align the rear calipers on the disc brakes by adding or removing shims so they were central with in .0010”. No problems here so wired the fixing bolts up and moved on.

Rear Caliper Pic

Right, onto the pivot brackets and chassis carrier brackets. I replaced the shims as per the strip down and the chassis carrier bracket went on without any trouble. Not sure about the toe in / toe out and after reading Simons Blog I will leave the bolt wiring until I’ve checked it.

Diff Carrier Bracket
Next on the list was to add the drive shafts and rear hubs. The hubs needed to be tightened on to the drive shafts splines to around 110ft/lbs torque. After applying some loctite to the splines I used Simons method of stopping the hub turning with a piece of timber with a hole drilled in it.


Hub Timber
Simons picture shown here as I forgot to take one. Hope he doesn’t mind, I’m sure he’ll let me know if he does.
The hubs were then added to the forked end of the wishbone and shims added to take out any play.


This whole assembly was then added to the differential, first of all locating the wishbone and inner fulcrum bolt along with all the seals washers etc 32 pieces in all. A little bit fiddly but made easier with a spare piece of round bar.

Rear Wishbone Seal etc


Then the drive shafts are attached to the differential. These will have to be shimmed out to give a camber reading of 0 degrees as specified in the GD Build Manual.The differential was set 8" off the ground on some timber and the wishbones set on 6” timber blocks to give the effect of the axle at normal ride height. The whole thing was checked for level and the shimming began.

Drive Shaft Shims

I used some old nuts while determining the correct shimming so as not to ruin the new steel locknuts.  



After a bit of messing about I managed to get the correct setting, as shown by this handy little camber gauge.
Quite pleased with the afternoons work. It was good to see all those rusty bits finally returned to there former glory.

Jag Rusty 2

Thursday, 12 November 2009

Body Colour Suggestions

At the risk of opening myself up to ridicule I’m going to put it out there to everybody as to suggestions for a body colour. As I’m not having the car sprayed I am limited to any RAL COLOUR which will be in gel coat, there is still a fair old choice.


 http://lynxpowdercoating.co.uk/RAL_colour_chart.html  http://lynxpowdercoating.co.uk/RAL_colour_chart.htmlhttp://lynxpowdercoating.co.uk/RAL_colour_chart.html
http://lynxpowdercoating.co.uk/RAL_colour_chart.html
I was thinking of something to contrast/compliment nicely with the chassis colour RAL 5022.
So go on let me know what you think I’m sure there are plenty of people out there with a good eye for colour.
Tongue out Don’t be offended though if I just take no notice of anybody and have it black Tongue out

The Chassis Has Arrived

I got that call I’d been waiting for from Andy at GD to say that the chassis was ready and waiting Open-mouthed  So a quick nip down the road in a van I hired for half a day.
transit-van
Popped it in the back with a few other bits, steering rack, shocks, springs etc.

Chassis Van
Here it is in all its naked glory. The colour is RAL 5022

 
Chassis No GD427J268


 
No excuse now, Just need to get on and build the thing. So it will be in the garage tomorrow and Saturday, after a good study of the build manual tonight, but not Sunday as I’m off to the Classic Car Show at the NEC.